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[Japo]

As everything else, RAM sticks have the manufacturer's name and the part number printed on them. That way you can be reasonably sure if your current sticks are really identical.

I've edited my previous post to explain it better.

[Eagle of Fire]

The computer isn't new new, my dad assembled it for me. The only thing I had to do, were to buy a graphics card - which has a 3 weeks warranty.

Ah... Well, you see... This is the kind of information you should say right off the bat. I assumed you purchased a brand new computer, built in from a list of models at whatever place you purchased it... With such a built I assume you get everything new and tested, including wattage and the like. It kind of completely blow up what I said earlier.

Try what the others said instead and uninstall Omega Drivers and reinstall your up to date drivers.

[The Fifth Horseman]

Originally Posted by Japo

Horseman, where did you get the 450 W figure?

http://xfxforce.com/en-us/products/G...x#ProductTab_3

The four sticks in my pc looks identical, and I guess they're the same model.

Not absolute proof, trust me. Even if they're from the same manufacturer, they might have different timings.

[Halindir]

Originally Posted by The Fifth Horseman

Not absolute proof, trust me. Even if they're from the same manufacturer, they might have different timings.

Are the timings written on the RAM-sticks?
- Tomorrow i'll try fiddling with Ultimate Boot CD


"Minimum 300W or greater system power supply (with a minimum 12V current rating of 22A)
"
Does this mean this PSU won't be able to power it properly?

Inter-Tech EPS-650W Ultra Silent
Connectors:
- 20/24pin ATX connector
- 4x HDD/DVD (Ohmlegs)
- 1x FDD
- 2x S-ATA
- 1x EPS 8 pins, seperable to 4pins
- 1x PCI-E 6+2 pins
- 1x PCI-E 6 pins

Tech:
Output: 650 Watt
PFC: passive
Fan: 120mm
Fan control: automatic
On /Off switch: yes
Input: 240V only
Noise Level: 18-21 dB
Weight: 1,58 kg
Certificates: CE, TÜV, RoHS

Volt Amp
+ 3.3 V 28 A
+ 5.0 V 28 A
+ 12.0 V1 18 A
+ 12.0 V2 18 A
+ 12.0 V3 18 A
+ 12.0 V4 18 A
- 12.0 V4 0,8 A
+ 5.0V SB 2,5 A

+ 3.3V / +5V combined: 150 Watt
+ 12V combined: 550 Watt

[Japo]

I can't help you with the details of the power supply. You can get more knowledgeable help at http://www.tomshardware.com/ for example.

You can download and burn (or install to USB flash drive) the UBCD, but I recommend you leave the scans for the next night, as they take a lot of time, plus there's no harm in doing the complete set more than once.

When scanning with UBCD, fill all the DIMM slots, so as many sticks are tested in a night as possible. Also if you haven't tinkered with RAM before, keep in mind that the sticks in slots DIMM 1 and 2 must be matched (identical), also if you fill DIMM 3 and 4, etc.

Even if all the documented details and what's printed on the sticks are the same, two sticks may have compatibility problems. Actually there should be no problems (unless you wanted them in dual channel) even if the capacity and the rate were different. But there are further unpredictable variables. RAM isn't well standardized, and OEMs always tell you to buy your RAM from them (right, like I'm going to pay 5 times the price) or else they'll wash their hands.

I can tell you about my case. The two pairs of sticks that gave me trouble had different manufacturer and capacity (4 and 1 GB), but the same rate (1333 MHz, "PC3-10600") and even the same CAS latency (CL9), and non ECC. There were no other documented specs. The computer's manual states that it can take PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) and PC3-10600 (1333 MHz), non ECC, but nothing else. Now I know that was the problem and it doesn't happen any more, but back then I was dead sure it had to be the gfx card, because of the symptoms.

This is why, if after replacing the power supply and the card and after UBCD finds no defect, when you have to test the RAM in actual usage for each configuration, you should run on a single stick if possible. Then you should see the problem disappear at last, and you'd be able to ascertain what RAM configuration brings it back. I hope you find the problem sooner than this, though.

[The Fifth Horseman]

Are the timings written on the RAM-sticks?

Depends on the manufacturer.

Minimum 300W or greater system power supply (with a minimum 12V current rating of 22A)

Does this mean this PSU won't be able to power it properly?

+ 12.0 V1 18 A
+ 12.0 V2 18 A
+ 12.0 V3 18 A
+ 12.0 V4 18 A

It won't.

[dosraider]

Originally Posted by The Fifth Horseman

It won't.

Sorry, but I have to disagree, it will.
Combined 12V will sustain the 22A easily.

[Japo]

That's why I didn't want to say anything, I'm not sure how it works. I assume the PCIe will get power from more than one 12 V lines (all of them?) in parallel?

There's also the gross 450 W figure, if your current supply has 350 W, and if what Horseman's found is the same card--it may be any other nVidia one with 2GB; nVidia makes the GPU chip, but the whole boards they're put in can be made by very different people: XFX, Gigabyte, Asus... Halindir you should look for your exact card's manufacturer and part number; it will be printed on it.

Still, Halindir, if you happen to have a spare supply, it would be a good thing to test, just like the gfx card, in case it's plain defective. But if you don't, maybe it's not time to think about buying a new one, yet. Check the figures for your particular card.

[Eagle of Fire]

You know... I never dabbled much into building my own computer from scratch but in the good old days (TM) we simply used to take every single different pieces from the computer and add their wattage consumption together to find the strict minimum you needed for your power supply.

It is time consuming because you need to get the serial number of every piece then check on the net... But at least it works foolproof.

[dosraider]

@Japo:
As you seem to like RAM specs:
HWiNFO32™
Nice tool to get all the hardware specs.